Looking forward to this trip... have wanted to go to Cuba for a very long time.
My father, when he came from Spain as a young man, visited the country several times before things were shut down. He always spoke about how much he enjoyed visiting, and how he looked forward to going back. As was the case with his returning to Spain someday... he never did.
Now we get the opportunity... and are in the early discovery/ planning stages for the impending visit.
Cuba – Dr. Frank Argote-Freyre
Baracoa - Santiago - Camaguey - Trinidad - Havana
April 24 – May 6, 2012
Comprehensive, 12-night journey. Meet-the-people and understand Cuban views on the matters that mean most to them. This is not a tourist program but rather an opportunity to engage with Cubans from across the social spectrum and enjoy a meaningful exchange of ideas. Beginning in the eastern part of the country we will learn about Cuban history, culture and society from the local people we meet. Fly into Holguin and drive to Baracoa, site of the first Spanish settlement. Then in Santiago, engage with Cubans involved with the city’s lively dance and art scene. Stop in Camaguey and Trinidad. Visit a school, hospital and cooperative. Finally reach Havana – the political capital – and a center of biotechnology, eco-movements and a cornucopia of the Arts.
Member Itinerary
CUBA – PEOPLE TO PEOPLE
With Dr. Frank Argote-Freyre
April 24-May 6, 2012
Holguin-Baracoa-Santiago-Camaguey-Trinidad-Havana
Curious about Cuba? Then join Council members on this comprehensive, 12- night journey through this intriguing Caribbean island. Meet-the-people and understand Cuban views on the matters that mean most to them. This is not a tourist program but rather an opportunity to engage with Cubans from across the social spectrum and enjoy a meaningful exchange of ideas. Beginning in the less visited eastern part of the country we will learn about Cuban history, culture and society from the local people we meet. Fly into Holguin and drive to Baracoa, site of the first Spanish settlement. Then in Santiago, home to Cuba’s oldest palaces and museums, engage with Cubans involved with the city’s lively dance and art scene. Stop in Camaguey, a lovely colonial town with unusual museums, and Trinidad, perhaps the best-preserved Spanish colonial town. Visit a school, hospital and cooperative. Finally reach Havana – the political capital – and a center of biotechnology, eco-movements and a cornucopia of the Arts.
Dr. Frank Argote-Freyre is an assistant professor of Latin American history at Kean University. He
received his Ph.D from Rutgers University in 2004. His first book, Fulgencio Batista: From Revolutionary
to Strongman was published in 2006. His second book, A Brief History of the Caribbean, co-authored
with Danilo Figueredo, came out in January 2008. He is currently working on the second volume of his
Batista biography. Prior to embarking on scholarly pursuits, he worked as a journalist for 10 years and as
a congressional press secretary.
Dr. Argote-Freyre participated in a World Affairs Council of Philadelphia Great Decisions program on
Cuba. He is leading our March Cuba tour. We are pleased to share his expertise with our members.
Please note however that he will miss the last two days of the program as he must return to the U.S.
1- April 24. Tuesday: Holguin/ Baracoa.
Fly on a direct morning flight from Miami to Holguin using ABC charters. (Depending upon timing,
members may have to stay overnight April 23 in Miami at their own expense.)
Enjoy lunch at the Restaurant 1720- a beautifully restored mansion.
There will be a chance to explore this city – Cuba’s 4th largest which is known as the “city of parks”.
Walk through the Parque Colon Garcia and stop at the Natural History Museum which has the world’s
smallest frog as well as the world’s smallest hummingbird. Meet with curators and staff.
Depart along small provincial roads for a 4 hour drive to Baracoa.
Upon arrival in Baracoa transfer to the Hotel Porto Santo.. Trip Advisor Reviews ... (changed, not HotelCastillo). Baracoa is an attractive town surrounded by rich, tropical vegetation. The name Baracoa is an Indian word meaning ‘existence of the sea’. Christopher Columbus arrived in Baracoa on November 27, 1492. He planted a
cross, now housed in the church, and described a mountain in the shape of an anvil which was thereafter
used as a point of reference for sailors. Baracoa is full of references to Columbus’ stay here. Porto Santo
marks the place where he was married in 1514, the same year that the capital of Cuba was moved from
Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba by Diego Velazquez. Baracoa was the first of the seven cities founded by
Diego Velasquez, and as such, is considered to be the oldest colonial city in the Americas. Between 1639
and 1742, Baracoa’s three forts – El Castillo, Fuerte de la Punta and Fuerte Matachin – were built by the
Spanish to protect the city from invasion. After the revolution in Haiti, Baracoa became a refuge for
French exiles and they brought with them coffee and cacao farming techniques as well as their own style
of architecture.
This evening meet with Dr. Alejandro Hartmann, the director of the Baracoa Museum and the city historian. Enjoy a lecture called “Local History and Legends of Baracoa”. B,L,D.
2- April 25. Wednesday. Baracoa.
Morning sightseeing in Baracoa will include a visit to Baracoa’s museum whose displays trace the history
of the region since pre-Columbian days. Continue on to the town’s cathedral which is an ocher-colored
edifice dating from 1805 and was built on the site of an earlier church which was destroyed by pirates in
1652. The cathedral contains the cross known as the “Cruz de la Parra” which is said to have been
brought here by Columbus. Although historians have now confirmed that the cross dates back from his
time period, it now seems unlikely that Columbus actually brought the cross from Europe.
April 24-May 6, 2012
Holguin-Baracoa-Santiago-Camaguey-Trinidad-Havana
Curious about Cuba? Then join Council members on this comprehensive, 12- night journey through this intriguing Caribbean island. Meet-the-people and understand Cuban views on the matters that mean most to them. This is not a tourist program but rather an opportunity to engage with Cubans from across the social spectrum and enjoy a meaningful exchange of ideas. Beginning in the less visited eastern part of the country we will learn about Cuban history, culture and society from the local people we meet. Fly into Holguin and drive to Baracoa, site of the first Spanish settlement. Then in Santiago, home to Cuba’s oldest palaces and museums, engage with Cubans involved with the city’s lively dance and art scene. Stop in Camaguey, a lovely colonial town with unusual museums, and Trinidad, perhaps the best-preserved Spanish colonial town. Visit a school, hospital and cooperative. Finally reach Havana – the political capital – and a center of biotechnology, eco-movements and a cornucopia of the Arts.
Dr. Frank Argote-Freyre is an assistant professor of Latin American history at Kean University. He
received his Ph.D from Rutgers University in 2004. His first book, Fulgencio Batista: From Revolutionary
to Strongman was published in 2006. His second book, A Brief History of the Caribbean, co-authored
with Danilo Figueredo, came out in January 2008. He is currently working on the second volume of his
Batista biography. Prior to embarking on scholarly pursuits, he worked as a journalist for 10 years and as
a congressional press secretary.
Dr. Argote-Freyre participated in a World Affairs Council of Philadelphia Great Decisions program on
Cuba. He is leading our March Cuba tour. We are pleased to share his expertise with our members.
Please note however that he will miss the last two days of the program as he must return to the U.S.
1- April 24. Tuesday: Holguin/ Baracoa.
Fly on a direct morning flight from Miami to Holguin using ABC charters. (Depending upon timing,
members may have to stay overnight April 23 in Miami at their own expense.)
Enjoy lunch at the Restaurant 1720- a beautifully restored mansion.
There will be a chance to explore this city – Cuba’s 4th largest which is known as the “city of parks”.
Walk through the Parque Colon Garcia and stop at the Natural History Museum which has the world’s
smallest frog as well as the world’s smallest hummingbird. Meet with curators and staff.
Depart along small provincial roads for a 4 hour drive to Baracoa.
Upon arrival in Baracoa transfer to the Hotel Porto Santo.. Trip Advisor Reviews ... (changed, not HotelCastillo). Baracoa is an attractive town surrounded by rich, tropical vegetation. The name Baracoa is an Indian word meaning ‘existence of the sea’. Christopher Columbus arrived in Baracoa on November 27, 1492. He planted a
cross, now housed in the church, and described a mountain in the shape of an anvil which was thereafter
used as a point of reference for sailors. Baracoa is full of references to Columbus’ stay here. Porto Santo
marks the place where he was married in 1514, the same year that the capital of Cuba was moved from
Baracoa to Santiago de Cuba by Diego Velazquez. Baracoa was the first of the seven cities founded by
Diego Velasquez, and as such, is considered to be the oldest colonial city in the Americas. Between 1639
and 1742, Baracoa’s three forts – El Castillo, Fuerte de la Punta and Fuerte Matachin – were built by the
Spanish to protect the city from invasion. After the revolution in Haiti, Baracoa became a refuge for
French exiles and they brought with them coffee and cacao farming techniques as well as their own style
of architecture.
This evening meet with Dr. Alejandro Hartmann, the director of the Baracoa Museum and the city historian. Enjoy a lecture called “Local History and Legends of Baracoa”. B,L,D.
2- April 25. Wednesday. Baracoa.
Morning sightseeing in Baracoa will include a visit to Baracoa’s museum whose displays trace the history
of the region since pre-Columbian days. Continue on to the town’s cathedral which is an ocher-colored
edifice dating from 1805 and was built on the site of an earlier church which was destroyed by pirates in
1652. The cathedral contains the cross known as the “Cruz de la Parra” which is said to have been
brought here by Columbus. Although historians have now confirmed that the cross dates back from his
time period, it now seems unlikely that Columbus actually brought the cross from Europe.
Explore the charming Plaza Marti which is surrounded by colonial houses and features a small tobacco factory located inside a small blue house. Inside rows of men and women sit side by side, tenderly rolling and pressing
cigars for local consumption. A blackboard shows production goals and achievements.
cigars for local consumption. A blackboard shows production goals and achievements.
This is a wonderful opportunity to learn how cigars are made. First, the filler is rolled and placed in a press so it
keeps its form. Then the wrapper is trimmed to one side straight and the other curved and rolled around
the filler. All-natural vegetable glue and water hold it in place. After trimming the loose pieces of leaf, the
cigar is ready to smoke. The process does not end here. The cigars then go to quality control where a
percentage are measured for size and opened to check the blend. Next they are sorted by color and packed in a scale with the darkest on the left and the lightest on the right. Finally, labels are wrapped around the cigars that are then packed in boxes and sealed with the necessary symbols to indicate their authenticity as real Havana cigars. On average, a roller makes about 90 cigars a day, depending on adeptness and the shape of the cigar – there are over 60 shapes and some are more difficult than others. We will be able to stop and talk with the workers as we see the skills they employ in the process.
Drive a few miles outside of town to the Duaba River where a short boat ride has been arranged. Cruise
through lush landscapes and forests where the air is filled with the chirps and squawks of more than a
hundred different bird species. Enjoy a delicious lunch at the Finca Duaba beneath the shade of palms and plantains. The final stop for the day will be at the village of Guirito where local famers will perform
adaptations of Cuban song – dance – known as el nengen and el kiriba. Afterwards opportunity to chat with
the farmers.
This evening after dinner attend a magnificent performance of Afro-Cuban dancers in the local Casa de la
Cultural. Dr. Hartmann will accompany the group and provide background on this quite extraordinary
performance. After their performance, meet the dancers depending on their schedule. B,L,D.
3- April 26: Thursday: Santiago
Enjoy a spectacular drive from Baracoa to Santiago. Stop in Guantanamo to pick up an escort who will
accompany the group to the east side of Guantanamo Bay which overlooks the Guantanamo US Naval Base, one of the oldest US overseas military bases. (I visited GITMO a couple times during a tour of duty while stationed onboard the aircraft carrier USS John F. Kennedy CV-67... now decommissioned.) It is the only one located in a communist country and is a constant thorn in the side of Cuban-US relations. Since 1903 the US has held an indefinite lease on the property which it claimed as a prize at the end of the Cuban-Spanish American War. The rent is $4,085 a year. Since 1959 the US Treasury checks have not been cashed by Fidel Castro. Enjoy a cool
drink at a cafe called Mirador de Malones. From here it is possible to use binoculars to look right down
on the US base. It is not possible to visit the base itself. The base produces its own water (through a
desalination plant) and has 400 miles of paved road.
Upon arrival in Santiago transfer to the recently renovated Hotel Casa Granda, Trip Advisor Reviews ... splendidly situated on Parque Cespedes and the place where Wormold stayed in Graham Greene’s Our Man in Havana.
After lunch at a local restaurant, enjoy an orientation tour of the area north of the hotel including the
Moncada Barracks which is known for being the place where, on 26 July, 1953, Fidel Castro and 79
soldiers dressed in Cuban Army uniforms, stormed the barracks. Although no longer used as barracks, the
building houses a superb museum that tells the tale of the attack, the revolution and subsequent history.
Meet with staff of the museum. Drive by the Plaza de la Revolucion which is dominated by a massive
monument to Antonio Maceo, the hero-general of the War of Independence.
Return to the hotel for drinks on the roof and dinner. For those who would like to, enjoy an after-dinner
stroll around the Parque Cespedes, which is ringed with gas lamps, metal grills and tall shade trees. The
beautiful white colonial building on the north side is the town hall. It was from here that Fidel Castro
gave the victory speech on January 2, 1959, after he entered town following Batista’s flight from Cuba.
B,L,D.
4- April 27. Friday. Santiago.
Take a full day to explore the second largest city and former capital whose population has the highest
percentage of African blood. Though the traditional architecture is mostly Spanish, the faces are dark –
often with light eyes betraying hints of European blood. For many years the city of Santiago and the
surrounding region was a clearinghouse for many different nationalities. Its east-facing position and
proximity to Jamaica and Haiti fostered close links between the city and these two Caribbean islands. In
addition, many of the French planters and merchants who fled Haiti following the revolution in 1791
chose to settle in and around Santiago. The rich racial mixture has produced some of the most exciting
music, art and architecture in the Caribbean. This port city is also an industrial city and the distilleries of
the original Bacardi rum are here.
Begin the day at the Museo de Arte Colonial which is said to be the oldest house in Cuba. It was built in
1516 as the home of Cuba’s conqueror, Diego Velasquez. Along the second story runs a balcony built
with a Moorish-style wooden grille to shield its delicate aristocratic occupants from prying eyes. Continue
on to the Jesuit Dolores College where Fidel Castro was educated as a youth. It was one of the most
profound intellectual influences in his life. Meet with professors and students.
Stop at the Tomás Romay Natural History Museum and the small but impressive Botanic Garden
dedicated to ferns, many of which are endemic to Cuba. Learn about the museum from docents.
Drive south of the city to a restaurant called El Morro set atop the cliffs with fabulous views along the
coast. After lunch visit the Morro Castle itself, which was originally built in 1640 to ward off pirate
attacks. Unfortunately, this effort failed and in 1662 the pirate Henry Morgan stormed it and then blew it
up. A more solid structure was begun in the late 18th century and this is what one sees today. From the
battlements of the Castle there is a spectacular view of the harbor and its bottleneck entrance. The interior of the castle houses the Museo de la Pirateria, an exhibition of pirates during the colonial and modern eras.
In the afternoon drive to the Basilica del Cobre which takes its name from the large copper mine that the
Spanish established in the mid-1500’s. The church – Cuba’s only basilica – is known for its offerings and
as the shrine to La Virgen de la Caridad (Virgin of Charity), patron saint of Cuba, to whom miraculous
powers are ascribed. In 1952, Hemingway dedicated his Nobel Prize for Literature to the Virgin although
the medal is now in the custody of the Archbishop of Santiago.
The final stop for the day will be at the Caney Rum Factory which was built in 1868 by the Bacardi
family and nationalized in 1959. The Cuban government continued to make rum under the Bacardi name
but Bacardi sued and won the lawsuit. Ever since, the rum produced from this factory has been sold as
“Havana Club”. While it is not possible to tour the factory, it is possible to sample some of the rums as
we chat with hosts at “Havana Club”. B,L,D.
5- April 28: Saturday. Camaguey.
Morning drive to Camaguey stopping en route at the city Las Tunas, capital of the province of Las Tunas
which lies 662 km east of Havana. The city, originally named Las Tunas was, in 1869, renamed Victoria
de Las Tunas, a title given it by its Spanish governor to commemorate a colonial victory over the
Cubans. The name reverted to plain Las Tunas in 1895, following the battle in which the Cubans finally
took back the city. These days Las Tunas is a center for trade in the production of sugar and chemicals.
Tour the Provincial Vicente García Historical Museum which rises majestically in the heart of Las Tunas
City. In the opinion of architects, the building is a true expression of eclecticism. Others consider it a
principal reference to local geography. Undoubtedly, it is an incomparable symbol of history and identity.
Its construction dates back to the days when Don Rafael Zayas González, a local illustrious journalist,
was the town’s major. So as to accomplish a work filled with distinction and elegance, the renowned
Santiago de Cuba-born professional Carlos Sagarra Fernández, was hired as principal engineer. The
building was officially opened in 1921. Invaluable historical pieces are stored in its eight exhibition
rooms, through which thousands of Cuban and foreign visitors have passed.
After lunch continue on to Camaguey and overnight at the Gran Hotel de Camaguey ... Trip Advisor Reviews ... (not Colon Hotel).
We have requested a special visit this afternoon to Minas to visit a violin workshop which opened in
1976. The workshop is run by Alvaro Suarez Ravinal who has over 50 years experience of making
violins. With the Cuban Ministry of Culture he is training locals to turn native hardwoods into elegantly
carved violins. He welcomes visitors and participants will talk with some of his trainees. During the 19th
century Camaguey was the center of the rebellion against Spain.
Before dinner enjoy a private Salsa class. Salsa has its origins in Cuba where the blending of African
drum rhythms and Spanish guitar evolved into a variety of Latin American music: Son, Danzón, the
rhythms of Carnival, Cha Cha Cha, Mambo, Salsa and even Tango came out of Cuba. The Salsa
movements originate from the Cuban Son dancing of the 1920s, and more specifically through the beat of
Son Montuno with strong influences from the dance of Danzon, Mambo, Guaguanco and other Afro5
Cuban folkloric dancing. Today's Salsa dancing is a rich blend of Latin-American and Western
influences. Salsa traces a 90-year history in which there are numerous evolutionary paths, sometimes split due to political and social influences. As a result, today there are various distinct styles of Salsa dancing, namely Cuban ("Casino"), New York Style ("Mambo on 2"), Los Angeles Style ("On 1"), Colombian Salsa ("Cali-Style") and Miami-Style Salsa. Salsa is typically a partner dance, although there are recognized solo forms. Salsa can be improvised or performed with a set routine, choreography and freestyle. This will provide a wonderful opportunity to chat with the teachers. B,L,D.
6- April 29: Sunday. Camaguey.
During the 19th century Camaguey was the center of the rebellion against Spain. The most famous native
son is General Ignacio Agramonte renowned for many feats of bravery. Camaguey was also the birthplace
of Carlos Finlay, the doctor who first linked the mosquito with the yellow fever germ.
Today enjoy a walking tour of the large colonial core of the city. It is now a national monument
containing more old buildings than any other city save Havana. Visit a number of buildings including the
Casa Natal de Ignacio Agramonte, the birthplace of the patriotic hero and the mansion where his family
lived for many years, it is notable for the third-floor balcony that runs the length of the facade and around
the corner. Now a museum, the house preserves the original furniture and a number of enormous clay
pots. These clay pots were used to store water and historically a family’s wealth could be measured by the number of tinajones (clay pots) in their possession. The pots are now the symbol of the city!
Visit the main theater which is home to the Ballet of Camaguey, the most respected Cuban dance group
after the Ballet Nacional. We expect to look in on a practice class and meet the dancers.
Schedule permitting, attend an Alfareros game. The Alfareros are the baseball team that represent
Camaguey in the Cuban National Series. Formed after the Cuban state redefined its provinces in 1977, the Alfareros advanced the next season to the league championship series, but fell to Henequeneros of
Matzanas. Share the game with local Cuban fans. B,L,D.
7- April 30. Monday: Trinidad. (Sancti Spiritus - 80 km west)
Depart the hotel this morning and drive to Trinidad. En route stop at Ciego de Avila. A small city of
shaded colonnaded shop-fronts, Ciego de Avila is the most modern of Cuba’s provincial capitals, founded
in 1840.
Just before entering Trinidad explore the area known as the Valle de Los Ingenios. This is a living
museum of the sugar industry, featuring 75 ruined sugar mills, summer mansions, barracks, and other
facilities related to the field. The famous Manaca-Iznaga Tower, built in 1816, is 45m high, and the
tolling of its bells once marked the beginning and end of working hours on the sugar plantations.
Ultimately, Trinidad’s prosperity rested on the sugar industry, which was introduced in the 18th century.
As a result of the wealth that the sugar industry brought, Trinidad’s cultural life flourished. Schools of
languages, music and dance were opened and a wide variety of artisans set up businesses, including gold
and silversmiths. Meet some of the artisans.
Continue on to the hotel located just outside of Trinidad on a beautiful stretch of beach.
Changed... now the hotel is the Hotel Rijo Plaza in Sancti Spiritus. (Trip Advisor-Review)
Enjoy dinner this evening at the hotel ?. B,L,D.
8- May 1. Tuesday: Trinidad.
Spend the day exploring Trinidad, the fourth of the seven cities founded by Diego de Velasquez in 1514
as a base for expeditions into the “New World”. Today it is maintained as a living museum, just as the
Spaniards left it in its period of greatest opulence. It is the crown jewel of Cuba’s colonial cities. The
whole city with its fine palaces, cobbled streets and tiled roofs, is a national monument and, since 1988, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Funded by the sugar industry, in 1827 the Teatro Candamo opened its doors. The well-off patricians built
huge mansions for themselves (now museums) and sent their children to European universities. However,
during the second half of the 19th century the Industrial Revolution and increased sugar beet production in
Europe led to the decline of Trinidad’s slavery-based economy. Construction ceased and the city
remained frozen in time.
The maze of cobbled streets is lined with terra-cotta tiled roofed houses in soft pastel colors. Much of the architecture is neo-classical and baroque, with a Moorish flavor reflecting the town’s heritage of conquistadors. The exquisite buildings are fronted by mahogany balustrades, fancy grills of wrought iron, turned wooden rods and massive wooden doors with postigos (small windows) that open to let the breezes flow through cool, tile floored rooms connected by double-swing half-doors.
Begin the day at the Plaza Mayor which is in the center of town and elegantly adorned with glazed
earthenware urns. Around the plaza are the Museo Romantico, the Museo Arqueologia and the cathedral,
Iglesia Parroquial de la Santisima Trinidad, which was built between 1817 and 1892. Explore the
cathedral, which is the largest church in Cuba, and is renowned for its acoustics. On the left at the front of
the church is a crucifix of the brown-skinned Christ of Veracruz who is the patron of Trinidad. The altars
are made of precious woods such as cedar, acacia, caoba and grenadine. Continue on to Museo de
Arquitectura which is the former mansion of the Iznaga family. This museum tells the history of
Trinidad’s development. Maps, model structures and sections of houses in miniature, demonstrate city
planning, colonial construction techniques and the fine craftsmanship of the period.
At lunch meet with local entrepreneur David Aloma who recently opened a private restaurant in Trinidad
called Davimart. Mr. Aloma has taken advantage of the relaxed regulations regarding private enterprise in
Cuba and has opened a restaurant with seating capacity for 20 diners. He is employing and paying 3
Cubans who are not family members to assist him in running this restaurant. Meet with his staff.
After a short walk explore the Museo Romantico which houses a collection of romantic-style porcelain,
glass, paintings and ornate furniture belonging to the Conde de Brunet family dating from 1830. Note the
solid carved-cedar ceiling that dates from 1770. The museum is located in a colonial mansion with
breathtaking views over the square from the upper floor balconies. For those who feel like a climb to a
marvelous vista there will be a chance to visit the Antigua Convento de San Francisco de Asis. The tower
and church are all that remain of the original convent.
Return to Trinidad for dinner this evening. Trinidad in the evening is quite different from Trinidad during
the day, and there is something very special about walking down its narrow cobbled streets by the light of
the moon. B,L,D. (Note: We are now staying at a hotel an hour away, so this must have changed as well.)
9- May 2. Wednesday: Havana.
Depart Trinidad this morning and drive to Havana.
Stop at the village of Camilo Cienfuegos to visit the local hospital where the group will meet with
hospital staff. This visit will be coordinated by Joel Yanis, one of the two doctors that staff the hospital.
Continue on to the Pepe Mendez Elementary School. This trip has been coordinated by principal
Mereida Rodriquez and english-teacher Frank Vayadares. There will be a chance to meet with staff
and students and learn more about education in rural Cuba.
The last stop for the morning will be at the local shop where the residents use their “libreta” to collect
their monthly supplies. Our participants will learn about rationing and how goods are distributed to
Cubans. Mr. Vayadares will accompany the group and encourage discussion with Cubans at the store.
Lunch will be at the fabulous Palacio del Valle which originally belonged to Celestino Caceres but was
given as a wedding present to a member of the local Valle family who added to it by producing a
magnificent building.
Continue on to the Bay of Pigs where, in 1962, about 1,300 heavily armed CIA-trained Cuban exiles
came ashore fully equipped to provoke a counterrevolution to topple the Castro regime.
Arrive in Havana mid-afternoon. Transfer to the Parque Central hotel. (427 rooms - Trip Advisor Reviews) Late afternoon meeting with
Cuban blogger Yoani Sánchez who has defied odds to continue blogging despite threats she has received.
President Obama, in 2009, responded to a written questionnaire Sánchez submitted to the White House.
At leisure for dinner. B,L,... maybe Floridita.
10- May 3. Thursday: Havana.
This morning begin exploring Havana by foot. Havana was declared the capital in 1519, and on
December 17 of that year the first mass was celebrated under a ceiba tree which, according to legend, is
an ancestor of the one standing at the east end of the Plaza de Armas. Around it rose the center of the
original city – the plaza – and the first government buildings. With continued attacks by the French and
English, colonial authorities decided to make Havana itself a fort, and in 1633 began constructing city
walls that eventually ringed what is now Old Havana.
Of all the capital cities in the Caribbean, Havana has the reputation of being the most splendid and the
finest example of a Spanish colonial city in the Americas. Restoration work in the old part of the city
helps reveal the glories of the past. Many of its palaces were converted into museums after the Revolution and more work has been done since the old city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.
While much of Cuba's infrastructure has crumbled and its economy has limped along, more than 300
landmark buildings in Old Havana have been refurbished. From fortresses built in the colonial days to
famous nightspots and hotels of the city's swinging era just before the Cuban revolution, the key to the
renaissance of the old city has been a strategy of restoring old hotels, restaurants and historic sites to
attract tourists, then using the revenue from tourism to finance more restoration. Restoration of the
historic center is one of the city government’s priorities and our time here will allow ample opportunity to
evaluate the progress. Meet with staff of the city historian’s office.
Begin by walking from the hotel to the center of Old Havana to view a scale-model of Old Havana. The
model serves as an excellent introduction to the lay-out of the city. It is color-coded by age with the
historic buildings painted in crimson, pre-Revolution buildings in yellow and the post-revolutionary
buildings in ivory. Close by is the Plaza de Armas which was built in 1584 for military exercises. Most
mornings used books are sold here, mainly post-revolution editions on Cuban history. Havana's town hall
is located on the square now the city museum and gives an overview of its history. Admire the Cathedral
of Saint Christopher located on the cobbled Plaza de la Catedral. The cathedral has been described by one Cuban writer as "music set in stone". The square is surrounded by some of Havana's oldest buildings, the wealthiest families built their mansions here.
End the morning at the Plaza Vieja, a stunningly beautiful old square. Although the square was in a sad
state of repair for many years, that decay is being reversed by the caring restoration of Habana Vieja.
Lunch in a superb restaurant with local music.
This afternoon enjoy a city orientation tour by bus which will be led by an architectural historian. The
tour will include an inside visit to the wonderful Riviera Hotel which, when it opened in 1958, was
considered a marvel of modern design. It was owned at the time by Meyer Lansky. The hotel has recently
been restored to recapture its 1950s ambience. Drive along La Rampa which climbs past the offices of
Cubana, the Hotel Havana Libre and Art-Deco apartment buildings to the Parque Copelia, an entire block
of a large, lush park. In the middle of the park, visit a remarkable design icon, an ice-cream parlor
designed in 1966, which serves an estimated 30,000 customers a day. Follow Calle L south from La
Rampa and arrive at the wide steps which lead to the porticoed, columned façade beyond which lies the
University of Havana. Walk through the Colon Cemetery before returning to the hotel stopping at the
Callejon de Hamel, the site of a huge multi-dimensional Afro-Cuban mural.
Before dinner this evening drive to the Ceramics Museum for a tour and performance of Cuban music
performed by Luis Manuel Molina, a classic guitar player.
Dinner at the Café Oriente. B,L,D ... another Cafe Oriente review
11- May 4. Friday: Havana.
Morning visit to the new Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: Arte Cubano (Cuban Collection). The Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes is actually divided into two sections, occupying two buildings: the Cuban
Collection which we will see this morning, and the International Collection. The museum’s origins date
back to 1842 when the San Alejandro Art Academy started its collection, forming the nucleus of the
museum founded in 1913. It expanded greatly after Castro took over in 1959, notably with works from
the private collections of Julio Lobo and Oscar Cintas. The tour this morning will be accompanied by a
contemporary art curator and museum staff will also be available to the group.
Visit the home of Cristina Vives, a well-known Cuban art critic and dealer. Cristina will talk about
contemporary Cuban art and will show the pieces she has in her home as well as pieces in a small gallery,
a short walk from her home. Cristina’s husband, the noted Cuban photographer Figueroa, will also meet
the group.
After lunch at El Ajibe drive to the home of artists Alicia Leal and Juan Moreira for a chance to meet
the artists and to view their work. Their home is a spacious, high-ceilinged house with pale walls and
typical Creole inner doors that partition off the rooms where wooden and wicker furniture are
predominant. Alicia Leal’s work is of a markedly narrative nature; her characters speak intensely, not
only amongst themselves, but with the onlooker, who becomes an active participant and even protagonist
of the painter’s unsettling scenarios.
The surrealist paintings of Juan Moreira, Alicia’s husband, reflect many of the historical, religious and
cultural influences in Cuba. African myths and rituals brought to the island with the slave-trade in the
17th century are predominant as well as the social and political events of the 19th and 20th centuries that
shaped Cuban traditions and folklore.
Afternoon briefing at the US Interest Section in Havana.
Enjoy an evening reception at the Ludwig Foundation, an organization committed to the promotion of art
in Cuba, meet Foundation members, followed by dinner at a private restaurant, Café Laurent. B,L,D. (2nd review)
12- May 5. Saturday: Havana.
After breakfast this morning enjoy a lecture by Carlos Alzuguray on “US/Cuban Relations”.
After the lecture walk from the hotel to the Presidential Palace, a huge ornate building topped by a dome.
The history of Cuban political development is illustrated here from the slave uprisings to joint missions
with the ex-Soviet Union. A few minutes away by foot is the Granma Memorial which preserves the
vessel that brought Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and other revolutionaries from Mexico to Cuba in 1956.
The Granma, a surprisingly large launch, embodies the powerful, unstoppable spirit of the revolutionary
movement.
Drive to the village of Cojimar where Hemingway docked his boat, Pilar. The Terrace Hemingway wrote
about in The Old Man and the Sea was La Terraza where we will have a lunch of Paella today. It remains
a fisherman’s bar in this small village where Hemingway spent many an afternoon drinking with local
fishermen. His table is still there – cordoned off out of respect the locals still feel for Hemingway.
Afternoon visit to an “oganoponicos”. Cuba's urban farming has been a stunning, and surprising,
success. Today in Havana, 90% of the city’s fresh produce comes from local urban farms and gardens.
The country’s urban agriculture movement materialized out of the Special Period, an economic crisis
from 1990-94 when the former Soviet Union ended its food subsidies, plunging Cuba into a severe food
shortage. Without any other options, Cuban urbanites began growing their own foodstuffs on unutilized
land. This wave of urban agriculture spread not only through Havana, but also other Cuban cities.
Additionally, the trade embargo has meant the country’s food producers cannot import the pesticides and
herbicides used in other parts of the world; thus, the growers have turned to innovative integrated pest
management techniques and all-natural bio-pesticides. These solutions make environmental sense, too, as the proximity of urban farms to densely populated communities makes pesticides a potential health
hazard. There are currently over 450 organoponicos in Havana growing and selling vegetables, herbs, and
spices directly to the public. The organoponicos use raised container beds and a high ratio of compost to
soil and grow produce. These farms, many of them on tiny plots now supply much of Cuba's vegetables.
They also provide 350,000 jobs nationwide with relatively high pay and have transformed eating habits in
a nation accustomed to a less-than-ideal diet of rice and beans and canned goods from Eastern Europe.
It’s a fascinating model and shows that cities can not only produce their own food but also get all kinds of
social ecological benefits.
Enjoy a farewell dinner at La Guarida. B,L,D.
May 6. Sunday: Havana.
Return to Miami
CUBA – PEOPLE TO PEOPLE With Dr. Frank Argote-Freyre
April 24-May 6, 2012
keeps its form. Then the wrapper is trimmed to one side straight and the other curved and rolled around
the filler. All-natural vegetable glue and water hold it in place. After trimming the loose pieces of leaf, the
cigar is ready to smoke. The process does not end here. The cigars then go to quality control where a
percentage are measured for size and opened to check the blend. Next they are sorted by color and packed in a scale with the darkest on the left and the lightest on the right. Finally, labels are wrapped around the cigars that are then packed in boxes and sealed with the necessary symbols to indicate their authenticity as real Havana cigars. On average, a roller makes about 90 cigars a day, depending on adeptness and the shape of the cigar – there are over 60 shapes and some are more difficult than others. We will be able to stop and talk with the workers as we see the skills they employ in the process.
Drive a few miles outside of town to the Duaba River where a short boat ride has been arranged. Cruise
through lush landscapes and forests where the air is filled with the chirps and squawks of more than a
hundred different bird species. Enjoy a delicious lunch at the Finca Duaba beneath the shade of palms and plantains. The final stop for the day will be at the village of Guirito where local famers will perform
adaptations of Cuban song – dance – known as el nengen and el kiriba. Afterwards opportunity to chat with
the farmers.
This evening after dinner attend a magnificent performance of Afro-Cuban dancers in the local Casa de la
Cultural. Dr. Hartmann will accompany the group and provide background on this quite extraordinary
performance. After their performance, meet the dancers depending on their schedule. B,L,D.
3- April 26: Thursday: Santiago
Enjoy a spectacular drive from Baracoa to Santiago. Stop in Guantanamo to pick up an escort who will
accompany the group to the east side of Guantanamo Bay which overlooks the Guantanamo US Naval Base, one of the oldest US overseas military bases. (I visited GITMO a couple times during a tour of duty while stationed onboard the aircraft carrier USS John F. Kennedy CV-67... now decommissioned.) It is the only one located in a communist country and is a constant thorn in the side of Cuban-US relations. Since 1903 the US has held an indefinite lease on the property which it claimed as a prize at the end of the Cuban-Spanish American War. The rent is $4,085 a year. Since 1959 the US Treasury checks have not been cashed by Fidel Castro. Enjoy a cool
drink at a cafe called Mirador de Malones. From here it is possible to use binoculars to look right down
on the US base. It is not possible to visit the base itself. The base produces its own water (through a
desalination plant) and has 400 miles of paved road.
Upon arrival in Santiago transfer to the recently renovated Hotel Casa Granda, Trip Advisor Reviews ... splendidly situated on Parque Cespedes and the place where Wormold stayed in Graham Greene’s Our Man in Havana.
After lunch at a local restaurant, enjoy an orientation tour of the area north of the hotel including the
Moncada Barracks which is known for being the place where, on 26 July, 1953, Fidel Castro and 79
soldiers dressed in Cuban Army uniforms, stormed the barracks. Although no longer used as barracks, the
building houses a superb museum that tells the tale of the attack, the revolution and subsequent history.
Meet with staff of the museum. Drive by the Plaza de la Revolucion which is dominated by a massive
monument to Antonio Maceo, the hero-general of the War of Independence.
Return to the hotel for drinks on the roof and dinner. For those who would like to, enjoy an after-dinner
stroll around the Parque Cespedes, which is ringed with gas lamps, metal grills and tall shade trees. The
beautiful white colonial building on the north side is the town hall. It was from here that Fidel Castro
gave the victory speech on January 2, 1959, after he entered town following Batista’s flight from Cuba.
B,L,D.
4- April 27. Friday. Santiago.
Take a full day to explore the second largest city and former capital whose population has the highest
percentage of African blood. Though the traditional architecture is mostly Spanish, the faces are dark –
often with light eyes betraying hints of European blood. For many years the city of Santiago and the
surrounding region was a clearinghouse for many different nationalities. Its east-facing position and
proximity to Jamaica and Haiti fostered close links between the city and these two Caribbean islands. In
addition, many of the French planters and merchants who fled Haiti following the revolution in 1791
chose to settle in and around Santiago. The rich racial mixture has produced some of the most exciting
music, art and architecture in the Caribbean. This port city is also an industrial city and the distilleries of
the original Bacardi rum are here.
Begin the day at the Museo de Arte Colonial which is said to be the oldest house in Cuba. It was built in
1516 as the home of Cuba’s conqueror, Diego Velasquez. Along the second story runs a balcony built
with a Moorish-style wooden grille to shield its delicate aristocratic occupants from prying eyes. Continue
on to the Jesuit Dolores College where Fidel Castro was educated as a youth. It was one of the most
profound intellectual influences in his life. Meet with professors and students.
Stop at the Tomás Romay Natural History Museum and the small but impressive Botanic Garden
dedicated to ferns, many of which are endemic to Cuba. Learn about the museum from docents.
Drive south of the city to a restaurant called El Morro set atop the cliffs with fabulous views along the
coast. After lunch visit the Morro Castle itself, which was originally built in 1640 to ward off pirate
attacks. Unfortunately, this effort failed and in 1662 the pirate Henry Morgan stormed it and then blew it
up. A more solid structure was begun in the late 18th century and this is what one sees today. From the
battlements of the Castle there is a spectacular view of the harbor and its bottleneck entrance. The interior of the castle houses the Museo de la Pirateria, an exhibition of pirates during the colonial and modern eras.
In the afternoon drive to the Basilica del Cobre which takes its name from the large copper mine that the
Spanish established in the mid-1500’s. The church – Cuba’s only basilica – is known for its offerings and
as the shrine to La Virgen de la Caridad (Virgin of Charity), patron saint of Cuba, to whom miraculous
powers are ascribed. In 1952, Hemingway dedicated his Nobel Prize for Literature to the Virgin although
the medal is now in the custody of the Archbishop of Santiago.
The final stop for the day will be at the Caney Rum Factory which was built in 1868 by the Bacardi
family and nationalized in 1959. The Cuban government continued to make rum under the Bacardi name
but Bacardi sued and won the lawsuit. Ever since, the rum produced from this factory has been sold as
“Havana Club”. While it is not possible to tour the factory, it is possible to sample some of the rums as
we chat with hosts at “Havana Club”. B,L,D.
5- April 28: Saturday. Camaguey.
Morning drive to Camaguey stopping en route at the city Las Tunas, capital of the province of Las Tunas
which lies 662 km east of Havana. The city, originally named Las Tunas was, in 1869, renamed Victoria
de Las Tunas, a title given it by its Spanish governor to commemorate a colonial victory over the
Cubans. The name reverted to plain Las Tunas in 1895, following the battle in which the Cubans finally
took back the city. These days Las Tunas is a center for trade in the production of sugar and chemicals.
Tour the Provincial Vicente García Historical Museum which rises majestically in the heart of Las Tunas
City. In the opinion of architects, the building is a true expression of eclecticism. Others consider it a
principal reference to local geography. Undoubtedly, it is an incomparable symbol of history and identity.
Its construction dates back to the days when Don Rafael Zayas González, a local illustrious journalist,
was the town’s major. So as to accomplish a work filled with distinction and elegance, the renowned
Santiago de Cuba-born professional Carlos Sagarra Fernández, was hired as principal engineer. The
building was officially opened in 1921. Invaluable historical pieces are stored in its eight exhibition
rooms, through which thousands of Cuban and foreign visitors have passed.
After lunch continue on to Camaguey and overnight at the Gran Hotel de Camaguey ... Trip Advisor Reviews ... (not Colon Hotel).
We have requested a special visit this afternoon to Minas to visit a violin workshop which opened in
1976. The workshop is run by Alvaro Suarez Ravinal who has over 50 years experience of making
violins. With the Cuban Ministry of Culture he is training locals to turn native hardwoods into elegantly
carved violins. He welcomes visitors and participants will talk with some of his trainees. During the 19th
century Camaguey was the center of the rebellion against Spain.
Before dinner enjoy a private Salsa class. Salsa has its origins in Cuba where the blending of African
drum rhythms and Spanish guitar evolved into a variety of Latin American music: Son, Danzón, the
rhythms of Carnival, Cha Cha Cha, Mambo, Salsa and even Tango came out of Cuba. The Salsa
movements originate from the Cuban Son dancing of the 1920s, and more specifically through the beat of
Son Montuno with strong influences from the dance of Danzon, Mambo, Guaguanco and other Afro5
Cuban folkloric dancing. Today's Salsa dancing is a rich blend of Latin-American and Western
influences. Salsa traces a 90-year history in which there are numerous evolutionary paths, sometimes split due to political and social influences. As a result, today there are various distinct styles of Salsa dancing, namely Cuban ("Casino"), New York Style ("Mambo on 2"), Los Angeles Style ("On 1"), Colombian Salsa ("Cali-Style") and Miami-Style Salsa. Salsa is typically a partner dance, although there are recognized solo forms. Salsa can be improvised or performed with a set routine, choreography and freestyle. This will provide a wonderful opportunity to chat with the teachers. B,L,D.
6- April 29: Sunday. Camaguey.
During the 19th century Camaguey was the center of the rebellion against Spain. The most famous native
son is General Ignacio Agramonte renowned for many feats of bravery. Camaguey was also the birthplace
of Carlos Finlay, the doctor who first linked the mosquito with the yellow fever germ.
Today enjoy a walking tour of the large colonial core of the city. It is now a national monument
containing more old buildings than any other city save Havana. Visit a number of buildings including the
Casa Natal de Ignacio Agramonte, the birthplace of the patriotic hero and the mansion where his family
lived for many years, it is notable for the third-floor balcony that runs the length of the facade and around
the corner. Now a museum, the house preserves the original furniture and a number of enormous clay
pots. These clay pots were used to store water and historically a family’s wealth could be measured by the number of tinajones (clay pots) in their possession. The pots are now the symbol of the city!
Visit the main theater which is home to the Ballet of Camaguey, the most respected Cuban dance group
after the Ballet Nacional. We expect to look in on a practice class and meet the dancers.
Schedule permitting, attend an Alfareros game. The Alfareros are the baseball team that represent
Camaguey in the Cuban National Series. Formed after the Cuban state redefined its provinces in 1977, the Alfareros advanced the next season to the league championship series, but fell to Henequeneros of
Matzanas. Share the game with local Cuban fans. B,L,D.
7- April 30. Monday: Trinidad. (Sancti Spiritus - 80 km west)
Depart the hotel this morning and drive to Trinidad. En route stop at Ciego de Avila. A small city of
shaded colonnaded shop-fronts, Ciego de Avila is the most modern of Cuba’s provincial capitals, founded
in 1840.
Just before entering Trinidad explore the area known as the Valle de Los Ingenios. This is a living
museum of the sugar industry, featuring 75 ruined sugar mills, summer mansions, barracks, and other
facilities related to the field. The famous Manaca-Iznaga Tower, built in 1816, is 45m high, and the
tolling of its bells once marked the beginning and end of working hours on the sugar plantations.
Ultimately, Trinidad’s prosperity rested on the sugar industry, which was introduced in the 18th century.
As a result of the wealth that the sugar industry brought, Trinidad’s cultural life flourished. Schools of
languages, music and dance were opened and a wide variety of artisans set up businesses, including gold
and silversmiths. Meet some of the artisans.
Continue on to the hotel located just outside of Trinidad on a beautiful stretch of beach.
Changed... now the hotel is the Hotel Rijo Plaza in Sancti Spiritus. (Trip Advisor-Review)
Enjoy dinner this evening at the hotel ?. B,L,D.
8- May 1. Tuesday: Trinidad.
Spend the day exploring Trinidad, the fourth of the seven cities founded by Diego de Velasquez in 1514
as a base for expeditions into the “New World”. Today it is maintained as a living museum, just as the
Spaniards left it in its period of greatest opulence. It is the crown jewel of Cuba’s colonial cities. The
whole city with its fine palaces, cobbled streets and tiled roofs, is a national monument and, since 1988, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Funded by the sugar industry, in 1827 the Teatro Candamo opened its doors. The well-off patricians built
huge mansions for themselves (now museums) and sent their children to European universities. However,
during the second half of the 19th century the Industrial Revolution and increased sugar beet production in
Europe led to the decline of Trinidad’s slavery-based economy. Construction ceased and the city
remained frozen in time.
The maze of cobbled streets is lined with terra-cotta tiled roofed houses in soft pastel colors. Much of the architecture is neo-classical and baroque, with a Moorish flavor reflecting the town’s heritage of conquistadors. The exquisite buildings are fronted by mahogany balustrades, fancy grills of wrought iron, turned wooden rods and massive wooden doors with postigos (small windows) that open to let the breezes flow through cool, tile floored rooms connected by double-swing half-doors.
Begin the day at the Plaza Mayor which is in the center of town and elegantly adorned with glazed
earthenware urns. Around the plaza are the Museo Romantico, the Museo Arqueologia and the cathedral,
Iglesia Parroquial de la Santisima Trinidad, which was built between 1817 and 1892. Explore the
cathedral, which is the largest church in Cuba, and is renowned for its acoustics. On the left at the front of
the church is a crucifix of the brown-skinned Christ of Veracruz who is the patron of Trinidad. The altars
are made of precious woods such as cedar, acacia, caoba and grenadine. Continue on to Museo de
Arquitectura which is the former mansion of the Iznaga family. This museum tells the history of
Trinidad’s development. Maps, model structures and sections of houses in miniature, demonstrate city
planning, colonial construction techniques and the fine craftsmanship of the period.
At lunch meet with local entrepreneur David Aloma who recently opened a private restaurant in Trinidad
called Davimart. Mr. Aloma has taken advantage of the relaxed regulations regarding private enterprise in
Cuba and has opened a restaurant with seating capacity for 20 diners. He is employing and paying 3
Cubans who are not family members to assist him in running this restaurant. Meet with his staff.
After a short walk explore the Museo Romantico which houses a collection of romantic-style porcelain,
glass, paintings and ornate furniture belonging to the Conde de Brunet family dating from 1830. Note the
solid carved-cedar ceiling that dates from 1770. The museum is located in a colonial mansion with
breathtaking views over the square from the upper floor balconies. For those who feel like a climb to a
marvelous vista there will be a chance to visit the Antigua Convento de San Francisco de Asis. The tower
and church are all that remain of the original convent.
Return to Trinidad for dinner this evening. Trinidad in the evening is quite different from Trinidad during
the day, and there is something very special about walking down its narrow cobbled streets by the light of
the moon. B,L,D. (Note: We are now staying at a hotel an hour away, so this must have changed as well.)
9- May 2. Wednesday: Havana.
Depart Trinidad this morning and drive to Havana.
Stop at the village of Camilo Cienfuegos to visit the local hospital where the group will meet with
hospital staff. This visit will be coordinated by Joel Yanis, one of the two doctors that staff the hospital.
Continue on to the Pepe Mendez Elementary School. This trip has been coordinated by principal
Mereida Rodriquez and english-teacher Frank Vayadares. There will be a chance to meet with staff
and students and learn more about education in rural Cuba.
The last stop for the morning will be at the local shop where the residents use their “libreta” to collect
their monthly supplies. Our participants will learn about rationing and how goods are distributed to
Cubans. Mr. Vayadares will accompany the group and encourage discussion with Cubans at the store.
Lunch will be at the fabulous Palacio del Valle which originally belonged to Celestino Caceres but was
given as a wedding present to a member of the local Valle family who added to it by producing a
magnificent building.
Continue on to the Bay of Pigs where, in 1962, about 1,300 heavily armed CIA-trained Cuban exiles
came ashore fully equipped to provoke a counterrevolution to topple the Castro regime.
Arrive in Havana mid-afternoon. Transfer to the Parque Central hotel. (427 rooms - Trip Advisor Reviews) Late afternoon meeting with
Cuban blogger Yoani Sánchez who has defied odds to continue blogging despite threats she has received.
President Obama, in 2009, responded to a written questionnaire Sánchez submitted to the White House.
At leisure for dinner. B,L,... maybe Floridita.
10- May 3. Thursday: Havana.
This morning begin exploring Havana by foot. Havana was declared the capital in 1519, and on
December 17 of that year the first mass was celebrated under a ceiba tree which, according to legend, is
an ancestor of the one standing at the east end of the Plaza de Armas. Around it rose the center of the
original city – the plaza – and the first government buildings. With continued attacks by the French and
English, colonial authorities decided to make Havana itself a fort, and in 1633 began constructing city
walls that eventually ringed what is now Old Havana.
Of all the capital cities in the Caribbean, Havana has the reputation of being the most splendid and the
finest example of a Spanish colonial city in the Americas. Restoration work in the old part of the city
helps reveal the glories of the past. Many of its palaces were converted into museums after the Revolution and more work has been done since the old city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.
While much of Cuba's infrastructure has crumbled and its economy has limped along, more than 300
landmark buildings in Old Havana have been refurbished. From fortresses built in the colonial days to
famous nightspots and hotels of the city's swinging era just before the Cuban revolution, the key to the
renaissance of the old city has been a strategy of restoring old hotels, restaurants and historic sites to
attract tourists, then using the revenue from tourism to finance more restoration. Restoration of the
historic center is one of the city government’s priorities and our time here will allow ample opportunity to
evaluate the progress. Meet with staff of the city historian’s office.
Begin by walking from the hotel to the center of Old Havana to view a scale-model of Old Havana. The
model serves as an excellent introduction to the lay-out of the city. It is color-coded by age with the
historic buildings painted in crimson, pre-Revolution buildings in yellow and the post-revolutionary
buildings in ivory. Close by is the Plaza de Armas which was built in 1584 for military exercises. Most
mornings used books are sold here, mainly post-revolution editions on Cuban history. Havana's town hall
is located on the square now the city museum and gives an overview of its history. Admire the Cathedral
of Saint Christopher located on the cobbled Plaza de la Catedral. The cathedral has been described by one Cuban writer as "music set in stone". The square is surrounded by some of Havana's oldest buildings, the wealthiest families built their mansions here.
End the morning at the Plaza Vieja, a stunningly beautiful old square. Although the square was in a sad
state of repair for many years, that decay is being reversed by the caring restoration of Habana Vieja.
Lunch in a superb restaurant with local music.
This afternoon enjoy a city orientation tour by bus which will be led by an architectural historian. The
tour will include an inside visit to the wonderful Riviera Hotel which, when it opened in 1958, was
considered a marvel of modern design. It was owned at the time by Meyer Lansky. The hotel has recently
been restored to recapture its 1950s ambience. Drive along La Rampa which climbs past the offices of
Cubana, the Hotel Havana Libre and Art-Deco apartment buildings to the Parque Copelia, an entire block
of a large, lush park. In the middle of the park, visit a remarkable design icon, an ice-cream parlor
designed in 1966, which serves an estimated 30,000 customers a day. Follow Calle L south from La
Rampa and arrive at the wide steps which lead to the porticoed, columned façade beyond which lies the
University of Havana. Walk through the Colon Cemetery before returning to the hotel stopping at the
Callejon de Hamel, the site of a huge multi-dimensional Afro-Cuban mural.
Before dinner this evening drive to the Ceramics Museum for a tour and performance of Cuban music
performed by Luis Manuel Molina, a classic guitar player.
Dinner at the Café Oriente. B,L,D ... another Cafe Oriente review
11- May 4. Friday: Havana.
Morning visit to the new Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: Arte Cubano (Cuban Collection). The Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes is actually divided into two sections, occupying two buildings: the Cuban
Collection which we will see this morning, and the International Collection. The museum’s origins date
back to 1842 when the San Alejandro Art Academy started its collection, forming the nucleus of the
museum founded in 1913. It expanded greatly after Castro took over in 1959, notably with works from
the private collections of Julio Lobo and Oscar Cintas. The tour this morning will be accompanied by a
contemporary art curator and museum staff will also be available to the group.
Visit the home of Cristina Vives, a well-known Cuban art critic and dealer. Cristina will talk about
contemporary Cuban art and will show the pieces she has in her home as well as pieces in a small gallery,
a short walk from her home. Cristina’s husband, the noted Cuban photographer Figueroa, will also meet
the group.
After lunch at El Ajibe drive to the home of artists Alicia Leal and Juan Moreira for a chance to meet
the artists and to view their work. Their home is a spacious, high-ceilinged house with pale walls and
typical Creole inner doors that partition off the rooms where wooden and wicker furniture are
predominant. Alicia Leal’s work is of a markedly narrative nature; her characters speak intensely, not
only amongst themselves, but with the onlooker, who becomes an active participant and even protagonist
of the painter’s unsettling scenarios.
The surrealist paintings of Juan Moreira, Alicia’s husband, reflect many of the historical, religious and
cultural influences in Cuba. African myths and rituals brought to the island with the slave-trade in the
17th century are predominant as well as the social and political events of the 19th and 20th centuries that
shaped Cuban traditions and folklore.
Afternoon briefing at the US Interest Section in Havana.
Enjoy an evening reception at the Ludwig Foundation, an organization committed to the promotion of art
in Cuba, meet Foundation members, followed by dinner at a private restaurant, Café Laurent. B,L,D. (2nd review)
12- May 5. Saturday: Havana.
After breakfast this morning enjoy a lecture by Carlos Alzuguray on “US/Cuban Relations”.
After the lecture walk from the hotel to the Presidential Palace, a huge ornate building topped by a dome.
The history of Cuban political development is illustrated here from the slave uprisings to joint missions
with the ex-Soviet Union. A few minutes away by foot is the Granma Memorial which preserves the
vessel that brought Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and other revolutionaries from Mexico to Cuba in 1956.
The Granma, a surprisingly large launch, embodies the powerful, unstoppable spirit of the revolutionary
movement.
Drive to the village of Cojimar where Hemingway docked his boat, Pilar. The Terrace Hemingway wrote
about in The Old Man and the Sea was La Terraza where we will have a lunch of Paella today. It remains
a fisherman’s bar in this small village where Hemingway spent many an afternoon drinking with local
fishermen. His table is still there – cordoned off out of respect the locals still feel for Hemingway.
Afternoon visit to an “oganoponicos”. Cuba's urban farming has been a stunning, and surprising,
success. Today in Havana, 90% of the city’s fresh produce comes from local urban farms and gardens.
The country’s urban agriculture movement materialized out of the Special Period, an economic crisis
from 1990-94 when the former Soviet Union ended its food subsidies, plunging Cuba into a severe food
shortage. Without any other options, Cuban urbanites began growing their own foodstuffs on unutilized
land. This wave of urban agriculture spread not only through Havana, but also other Cuban cities.
Additionally, the trade embargo has meant the country’s food producers cannot import the pesticides and
herbicides used in other parts of the world; thus, the growers have turned to innovative integrated pest
management techniques and all-natural bio-pesticides. These solutions make environmental sense, too, as the proximity of urban farms to densely populated communities makes pesticides a potential health
hazard. There are currently over 450 organoponicos in Havana growing and selling vegetables, herbs, and
spices directly to the public. The organoponicos use raised container beds and a high ratio of compost to
soil and grow produce. These farms, many of them on tiny plots now supply much of Cuba's vegetables.
They also provide 350,000 jobs nationwide with relatively high pay and have transformed eating habits in
a nation accustomed to a less-than-ideal diet of rice and beans and canned goods from Eastern Europe.
It’s a fascinating model and shows that cities can not only produce their own food but also get all kinds of
social ecological benefits.
Enjoy a farewell dinner at La Guarida. B,L,D.
May 6. Sunday: Havana.
Return to Miami
CUBA – PEOPLE TO PEOPLE With Dr. Frank Argote-Freyre
April 24-May 6, 2012
20 guests.
Participants must be a member of the World Affairs Council.
Participants must be a member of the World Affairs Council.
*****************************************
Cuba Videos-Slideshows
Cuba Videos-Slideshows
