Thursday, March 8, 2012

Fascinating Iquitos

Iquitos, Peru: Gateway to the Peruvian Amazon

We ended our cruise in Iquitos, Peru. Where we were met at the dock on a Sunday morning by a local guide called May-Jony. Then we went on a short 45 minute tour of the city... prior to arrival at the El Dorado Plaza Hotel in the Plaza de Armas Square. The hotel location is its greatest asset (5 star is really 2.5 in the Amazon). There really is very limited upscale lodging choice in the city.

The Iron House - Iquitos, Peru
Iquitos is hot and humid (90 percent), year round. The population is very diverse... there were many periods of big wealth in Iquitos (mainly two with rubber and then oil) that brought people from around the world and made it the most important port in the Peruvian Amazon. The city still has a lot of houses built during that age. 'Iquitinos' are mostly very friendly people and like to party. We arrived on a Sunday morning, the last day of the Thursday to Sunday weekly cycle that sees lots of people in the streets at night relaxing, and just having an all around good time.

The city is not accessible by road, motorcycles and motorcars dominate unlike anywhere else. Do not expect to see a city with much of the trappings of the western world. This city is very basic as it has no roads connection it with the rest of the world. Vehicles are old and most vehicles on the meager roads are 'motor taxis' or three wheeler motor-carts which can carry three people in a pinch.
This makes the city a bit more manic and loud. Other results include remarkably fluid (if chaotic) traffic, a preponderance of motorcycle sales and repair shops, and a sub-industry of people who agree to guard motorcycles while you shop... even placing cardboard on the seat to keep it cool from the hot sun.

Plaza de Armas from the El Dorado Hotel
The Plaza de Armas is a mix of modern and rubber boom styles. Cities like Iquitos turned into one long party during that age, where no expense was spared, nor eccentricity nor luxury lacking. As part of the legacy of this rubber boom age of abundance, Iquitos still bears traces of the extravagant taste of the rubber barons: mosaic tiles in Italian-style palaces, the bustling riverside walkway or the Iron House, a famous residence designed by Gustave Eiffel that was built from metal sheets. It was carried by hundreds of men through the jungle. There are a few street performers, a fountain, some statues, and one Catholic church. It is quite busy on Saturday and Sunday evenings.. thousands and thousands of people come out to enjoy the warm evenings.

Today, in the city of Iquitos, the modest local homes (not without a certain kitsch charm) exist alongside French mansions (largely used today as public offices). When rubber seeds were smuggled out of the country, the rubber industry moved to Malaysia, signifying the end of the rubber barons.
The memory of this past filled with abundance, however, lives on in the eccentric buildings which testify to an exuberant and wild era.

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Belen Market Main Building



One of the most exotic and MUST SEE parts of the city of Iquitos.

Yep.. that's caiman crocodile he's selling... head's sold separately.
The Belen Market is a place where all the farmer’s, fishermen, local vendors, crafts people and anyone with anything to eat, drink, cook with, or wear, are trying to get you to spend your money (soles) on their goods. There you'll find the freshest, most indigenous products from the surrounding areas... with over 150 local communities traveling here to be a part of this bustling and loud market scene.

Most people are living day to day... but although the conditions are meager, there is a lot of joy and contentment. Everyone is working in harmony to create a massive offering that will envelop all of your senses and make you want to try everything you come across along the way!

Roasted monkey meat.
Everything found out in the jungle is for sale here. You'll even find monkey meat for sale... technically illegal, but as it has been part of the culture for all time it is hard to end the practice.

Amazon River dragon fish... have a very hard shell.
And at the end of the day, late in the after noon... you will see hundreds of the local population of vulture birds swooping in to see just what they are able to scavenge what has been tossed onto the streets for the garbage trucks to clean up. And they'll try for what's still left on the selling stands as well... at times hassling with merchants for what's left unguarded for too long a time.

Vultures hanging around late afternoon... waiting to 'clean-up.'
It's an absolutely incredible market scene.. we spend LOTS of time over the two days we had in Iquitos visiting the market. The various sections of the were mesmerizing... absolutely numerous varieties of meats... fish... fruits and vegetables... cooked foods... clothing... all kinds of crafts... a boating parts aisle... barbers cutting hair.

Amazon giant catfish.. can grow up to 3 meters long!
A whole section of the market is dedicated to plant medicines made by Loretanas... jungle people who mix plant medicine as their profession. They make medicinal mixtures using plants, roots, flowers, herbs and alcohol, honey and who knows what else. Maybe even dosing the medicine with a blessing or shake of the chacruna leaves to give it special healing powers. Local people rely on these tinctures and remedies to treat their illnesses. They even use, make, and sell flower water to purify the outer self and make you more beautiful.

Everywhere you look there is something to behold. Music seeps into the background as do the call of the vendors drawing attention to their wares or the local activist telling you what is on his mind. Generations of families working hard together to help present their trade or craft to the market and earn a living. Where many of the people who sell and buy most everything they need at the market live together as a community.


The energy there is wild, even chaotic... and you get a good sense of just how far away from home you are... and how the market is a place where you will really learn about what great diversity the Amazon jungle provides for all its people.

You find yourself locked on and drawn in to this wonderful world... the abundant and full bounty of the Amazon on display... and you just hate to leave it.

For early risers... the market opens at 5am.. for the fresher and more abundant offerings.